I’m really stoked with this cover of Climb Magazine for their January 2013 issue. Not just because it’s my shot of Monique climbing – but I also love the graphics!
The magazine has an article about great lines, so this photo was a good choice. The route is the 60-metre tufa route Tom et je Ris (32) in Verdon Gorge, France.
We had a fantastic time climbing up in South East Queensland this winter but I’ve got to say information on the climbing was hard to come by. It soon became obvious to us that a lot of the crags up there were not covered by any print guidebooks; the coverage was usually very out of date and/or unavailable, or had simply never been covered by a print guidebook. Some local climbers had been gathering information for years and had already pretty much authored the text for some new guidebooks. We got talking and we all decided to work together, to make it happen and get all this material into print as soon as possible. I ran around taking a lot of crag topo photos and then when we returned home I locked myself in the office for a couple of months and smashed out the layout. The main contributors busted their arses to update, finish and polish the text as well as mark up the topos, and the local climbing community were fantastic with their support with contributing information and action photos. I needed to do the production of this book in between trips and we all wanted to get this guidebook produced before Christmas. And as it turns out we managed to achieved that; things went super smoothly with the printers, our shipment is being freighted to us at the moment and we’ll be distributing the books to the shops next week. Yeeha!
A huge shout out of thanks to everyone who contributed. I can’t wait to visit Queensland again next winter — to put this new guidebook to use and enjoy the great climbing!
So here we have it, I’m proud to announce the new South East Queensland Climbing, Selected Crags guidebook!
There’s more information below:
- This is a new guidebook for rock climbing in South East Queensland. There is a wealth of fantastic climbing in the area — and this compact yet comprehensive guide covers many areas not covered by any other current guidebook. It includes some of the best sport and trad climbing South East Queensland has to offer â€” a must have book for local climbing fanatics and visitors alike.
- Details eight climbing areas: Brooyar, Mount Beerwah, Mount Coolum, Mount Ngungun, Mount Tibrogargan, Mount Tinbeerwah, Serpent and the ever popular Kangaroo Point. All up over 1000 routes!
- Authored by local climber Lee Cujes in collaboration with Ross Ferguson, John Oâ€™Brien and others.
- Numerous cliff photo topos, access maps and professional user-friendly design help make route finding a breeze.
- A5 in size, full colour, 168 pages. RRP $36.95 (including GST).
- Available from climbing gear shops or by mail-order from our online shop here.
I’m stoked to learn that in a round about way a some of my imagery has found its way into the Messner Mountain Museum in Italy. It has come about because in recent times I’ve collaborated with the brilliant artist Paolo Albertelli. And Paolo has used some of my images for a couple of his sculptures. This is the work in the Messner Mountain Museum:
The sculpture is inspired by my image of Tony Barron on Agamemnon (10) at Mount Arapiles, Australia. And here is another one of Paolo’s works, this one comes from my image of Mariona Marti on Titulo Ferretero (7b+), Granada, Spain:
Paolo has produced a lot of beautiful and interesting pieces. See his website here. Thank you Paolo for you work!
After a few months sweating it out in the office it’s good to be on the road again, this time to The Grapiles (The Grampians and Arapiles – you heard it here first?) for a few weeks – which is flying by all to quickly. We’ve been climbing of course but there is no such thing as a holiday for us really, we have been very busy with photography and a couple of different projects that I’m currently working on (more on those later).
Mount Arapiles feels like home in a way, I spent nearly eight months camped here just prior to starting my photography business nearly 19 years ago. The place still feels magic…
Over in the Grampians Coco has been getting her bush walking game on…
And Monique has been doing her thing too…
Our calendar for 2013 is out and I’m stoked with the result again this year!
The marketing departments word is below. If you are thinking about getting a copy then don’t wait, we’ve cut the print run fine this year and there’s a good chance we’ll sell out.
This is the 19th annual calendar to showcase the work of World-renowned climbing photographer Simon Carter.
Seamlessly merging action and landscape, the dazzling imagery inspires and captivates climbers across the globe.
Features climbing destinations from Australia, China, France, New Zealand, Spain, UK, USA and Vietnam.
The design is stylish and functional and includes international holiday dates and moon phases.
Presented in a large 30 x 30cm format, shrink-wrapped and stiffened for protection. Opens to 30 x 60cm (12 x 24″).
Update: we have now sold out of the 2013 calendar!
If you’d like to know which Australian retailers may still have it in stock in your area, please email us with your location.
Congratulations to Mayan Gobat-Smith from New Zealand who yesterday climbed her long-term project Punks in the Gym (32) at Mount Arapiles, Australia. A superb personal achievement, hers also happens to be the first female ascent of the route.
“Punks” is a famous Australian test-piece with a colourful history. The beautiful line was first climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1985 and originally graded 31/32 by Wolfgang. The second ascent was by Stefan Glowacz and the third by Jerry Moffat who confirmed the 8b+ (32) grade. Despite that, for a while there the route was graded 31 whilst it was the subject of the NSW/Victoria grading wars in the early 1990s. Since then the route has seen numerous ascents and some years ago the grade firmly settled back at 32. So the route is not only the first 32 in Australia but it is often said may well be the first 32 (5.14a/8b+) climbed anywhere in the world. When Andy Pollitt was attempting the route in the early 1990′s a key crux hold disintergrated and so Andy recreated the hold out of sika. Some claimed that the recreated hold, since dubbed “the birdbath” (a harsh term given it’s only a 15mm incut edge), was bigger than the original but I think there are few people, if anyone, apart from Andy who actually know the truth of the matter. Andy eventually suceeded on the route in 1992 after three trips to Australia from the UK and a total 70 days on the route. If you think 70 days is a lot of time to spend on the route then spare a thought for Australian woman Jarmila Tyrril who moved to the area in part to be close to Punks; the route has been the main focus of her climbing for the last three years. With Jarmila spending a lot of time on the route and with Mayan making four trips to Australia with the route the main focus of those, there has been a lot of speculation who would snag the first female ascent. Recently someone was putting up posters around town hamming it up as a competition — “who will be first”? And so Mayan’s send has at last put an end to all the speculation. Successful punters are advised to make their way to the nearest TAB office to collect their winnings ASAP.
Last year I took some photos of Mayan on Punks when she was out here trying it for a few weeks. No doubt largely because of the reach factor Mayan’s sequence into the crux is entirely different to everyone elses. She links directly from the lower hard climbing straight up into the crux, entirely avoiding a really good rest just before the crux — the only good rest on the route. I’ve no doubt whatsoever that Mayan’s sequence is a really hard way to do the route but obviously sticking to her sequence has finally paid off for her. Congratulations again!
Here’s one of my shots of Mayan on Punks that I will show you now. I hate to have to mention this but I ask that people respect my work and my copyright. I say this because recently someone who runs a very popular and somewhat commercial site on Facebook recently took one of my photos from my site without permission and sprayed it widely around the internet. If people like to help support my work by purchasing a calendar or book then I really appreciate the support. If businesses want to help promote my work and my publications then I am very open to proposals and I certainly like to support people who are doing good and valuable work where I can. But Apparently I need to point out to some that I do retain the rights to my work and say in where and when my photos are used. In short, you need my written permission before taking my photographs from this web site and using them anywhere else. Thanks to everyone for your support and understanding!
Monique has been on a bit of a roll with her climbing for the last 12 months or so. It has been great to watch her enjoy the process as well as do some really cool things with her climbing lately. In the last year Monique has climbed several “routes of her dreams” including Fish Eye (her first 33) and recently she won the both the Lead and Boulder Australian Nationals. You probably wouldn’t know it but she has worked hard to overcome several injuries over the years, no woe-is-me sob stories, she was patient and just got back on the horse. Success in climbing can be fleeting and only gets harder as you get older so I think you’ve just got enjoy the good times when you can.
Whist we were up in Queensland Monique found herself a really cool project, the classic Whistling Kite (32) which tackles a beautiful proud buttress at Frog Buttress. I believe this was the second 32 established in Australia. Monique managed to make the sixth ascent of this route which had not seen a repeat in five years. It really is the most incredibly technical route I’ve ever seen. A big shout out of thanks to Duncan Steel for his inspiration, I’m sure his encouragement was instrumental in getting Monique so psyched about the route. Monique blogged about it here and now belatedly here are a few more photos from me …
When we were up in Queensland we split our time between all the Sunshine Coast crags, which I covered in the previous post, and Frog Buttress, which I will quickly cover here.
Best known for the incredible concentration of high-quality crack routes, Frog also has a lot of high-quality face climbing.
Sorry I can’t show you more of my photos from here at the moment, they will be appearing in a feature article soon…
At Frog I employed my Photo Pole apparatus, Photo pole 2.0, for the first time. A few modifications have made it a lot faster and better to work with, compared to the previous design. Here I set it up to shoot Duncan Steel on Whistling Kite. The results were awesome, stay tuned for when my new Australia book comes out to see those.
Frog Buttress, not the only one but another great reason to visit Queensland for climbing!