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The Sorcerer

Putting the fish-eye lens to full effect... Garry Phillips on The Sorcerer (27) with Chris Coppard belaying, a new independant route that they established on the Totem Pole in 2015 -- some 20 years after the first free ascent of the 65m high pillar.

Putting the fish-eye lens to full effect… Garry Phillips on The Sorcerer (27) with Chris Coppard belaying, a new independent route that they established on the Totem Pole in 2015 — some 20 years after the first free ascent of the 65m high pillar.

I didn’t see this coming, I don’t think anyone much did, but the 65 meter high Totem Pole has a new independent route. Established by Garry Phillips and Chris Coppard just a few weeks ago, the route is called The Sorcerer. The first pitch (grade 20) traverses around to the eastern side of the pillar and a hanging belay just above the swell, the second pitch provides punchy climbing straight up the ledge (grade 25) and the third pitch follows a crack out to the left arete then blasts straight up (grade 27). The Sorcerer offers a harder alternative to the ever increasingly popular The Free Route (25) and is much better protected (mostly bolts, just a few bits of trad) than the free version of the Ewbank Route (27). Incredibly, this new route comes some 20 years after the first free route on the Totem Pole, The Free Route, was established.

So I’ve just returned from two weeks shooting in Tasmania. With gale force winds on many days, conditions for climbing and photography varied from impossible to tough, but as always Tasmania delivered the goods. Major objectives were to photograph The Sorcerer as well as the 20th anniversary ascent of the Totem Pole with some of the original first free ascent team — and with UK climber Hazel Findlay as our rope gun. I’ll have the shots of Hazel next newsletter but this week I present to you… The Sorcerer! Many thanks to Garry and Chris for giving me the privilege and opportunity to document their very significant new route; great job guys, the new route looks awesome.

Upcoming events

On Thursday next week, 26 March, I’ll be presenting my new show “Australia Exposed (and some)” in Brisbane. I’m really looking forward to this, the crowd up there is so awesome. The show is on at the Queens Arms Hotel (upstairs), 64 James Street, New Farm. Show starts 7.30pm, tickets $5 at the door. Signed copies of Rock Climbing Down Under: Australia Exposed will be available after the show. Brisbanites, I look forward to seeing you there!

Also in Brisbane, Monique Forestier will be holding a series of climbing training clinics over the weekend (28 and 29 March) at several different gyms. Details –> www.moniqueclimbs.com.au/qld

Thanks for reading. More soon!

~Simon

Cape Hauy. Love it.

Cape Hauy. Love it. And the new track to out there is incredible.

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The Sorcerer himself, Garry Phillips working hard on pitch 3 (27).

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Chris trying Garry’s beta on p3.

Garry getting lowered in. With a storm front closing in we had about 10 minutes max to shoot pitch two (up to the ledge).

Having shot the upper pitch (pitch three) and with a storm closing in we decided to shoot the lower pitch below the ledge (pitch two). This is Garry getting lowered in for that. We had only a few minutes before the storm hit.

Chris Coppard, pitch 2 of The Sorcerer.

Chris Coppard, pitch 2 of The Sorcerer.

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Spicy moves in the zawn for Chris on p2 (25).

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The storm front hit and we were out of there! Chris jumars with ropes flying everywhere in the wind.


Brisbane show. Hope to see you there!

Brisbane show. Hope to see you there!

Rock Climbing Down Under: Australia Exposed, preview, reviews, stockist list, order it –> here!

Deluxe Limited Editions available –> here.

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