Blue Mountains Climbing — guide book extras and updates

This page has some important information, corrections and some new route information relating to the Blue Mountains Climbing 2010 Edition and Blue Mountains Selected Sport Routes 2011 Edition guide books.

Update 7 February 2014

Today Mount York has been reopened to climbing by Council. Bardens Lookout area has already been reopened.

Guide Map altered mk2

Access to the Freezer and Cosmic County

New info 30 January 2014

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat).
Everything is described fully in this downloadable pdf document –> ACCESS TO COSMIC COUNTY AND THE FREEZER.
Also here is a map replacement page for your 2010 Edition guidebook –> Guide Map altered mk2.
Thanks to the Cosmic Track Fairies.

Access to Logan Brae

At Logan Brae the land ownership and access has also recently changed. The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach. Map and further information on The Crag here. Thanks to the Logan Brae Track Fairies.

Bolting Guide

Thinking of placing bolts in the Blue Mountains? The rock here is unusual and normal bolting methods do NOT work properly. To understand the issues better please download and read this –> SOFT ROCK BOLTING GUIDE V7 before proceeding. Obviously it’s an important safety issue and one many local climbers feel very strongly about, so it’s important to get it right. Many thanks to Steve Hawkshaw and Mike Law for all their work on this.

Corrections — Blue Mountains Climbing 2010 Ed.

Page 163: Baby Carrots is Sport on Carrots, not Sport.

Page 275: West Face of the Mirrorball is Sport on Carrots, not Trad.

Page 278: Amoeba is Trad, not Sport.

Page 279: Hotel California has now been rebolted entirely on rings, no bolt brackets required (though one or two might be handy to give more room on the belays).

New Routes

NOTE: These new route descriptions have not been checked and are provided “as is”. Our usual guidebook warning and disclaimer applies (see page 3 of the 2010 Edition guidebook).

Sublime Point: Smack My Pitch Up (20), 120m. Download PDF topo –> Smack My Pitch Up_updated

Pulpit Rock: Under the Influence (21) 45m. PDF topo –> under_the_influence

Medlow Bath: Three Brothers, Flying Fox and Pole 28 Areas. PDF –> threebrothers_flyingfox_reduced