Monique Forestier on pitch 3 of Make it Snappy, Berhala Island, Borneo, Malaysia.
First up, I am very happy to say that my new coffee-table book, Rock Climbing Down Under: Australia Exposed is at the printers! Along with my photos from 21 areas is the text which has been written by some 80 individual authors. There are some beautiful emotive, touching, funny and entertaining personal stories in there. They have made the book into something far greater than I ever imagined at the onset. I am psyched! But more about the book another time.
Secondly, more good news: the Australian Climbing Festival is back on this year. Yeeha! It has been some years since the last one — and if it is anything like the previous ones it’ll be great. It’s on in Katoomba on the 17, 18 and 19th of October. Purchase tickets –> here. On the Saturday morning I will be holding a Climbing Photography Clinic; if this is your thing, then be sure not to miss it; more info is –> here. I will also be making a presentation (“Exposed”) on the Sunday. Meanwhile, my better half and the rope-gun in our family, Monique, will be giving a presentation on the Friday (“It’s not all high fives and Red Bull”) and holding a training clinic on the Saturday.
Now, about the photos in this newsletter: they are from Berhala Island, just off the coast of Borneo, Malaysia. Life has been busy: the book was off to the printers one day, and we were off to Borneo the next. We wanted to see for ourselves just how good the climbing is there. I first saw a photo of these impressive orange sandstone cliffs on Berhala in a book when I visited Borneo 15 years ago; Monique and I vowed one day to check it out. We were joined by our friend Simon Wilson.
We had learned that some routes had been developed on Berhala about five years ago, and that there was even a five pitch route, Make it Snappy, bolted and awaiting a free ascent — which the equipers encouraged us to try. We heard varying reports about the quality of the rock but decided to see for ourselves. If the photos inspire you, then I can possibly save you the trouble of putting this place on your “bucket list” by revealing (long story short) that what the photos don’t show is that the quality of the rock is generally very very… well… rubbish, indeed. Unfortunately, it is way too soft to allow for much good climbing. But while the rock was disappointing we achieved our goal of visiting this random place on the planet and having an adventure — and surely, that’s a large part of what it’s all about.
Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoy the photos. More soon.
~ Simon
PS. The World Climbing Calendar 2015 is available now! This year sees some big changes. I’ve collaborated with some of the world’s best climbing photographers. Samuel Bie, Keith Ladzinski, and Lukasz Warzecha have joined with me to help produce a very special calendar. The calendar also has a new format. See it and get it –> here.
Berhala. Looks good but…
Make it Snappy tackles the left side of the square cut buttress in five pitches, about 150 meters high.
Simon belaying Monique up pitch 2 of Make it Snappy. We spent three days trying this route and found the first three pitches much harder than they were graded before we lost inspiration with the soft rock (and the heat, and the sun).
Lots to do and see near Sandakan on Borneo. This girl is an expert handbag snatcher!
Simon Wilson on one of the single pitch routes above the beach (7b+?). With rusting (non-marine grade stainless steel) and missing bolts, Simon did some rebolting before playing on these.
Monique, same route as above. I won’t completely destroy the illusion of paradise by showing a photo of the rubbish that you see on the beach at low tide… ;-(
Last day. Monique on a spicy 25 that Simon rebolted.
After Borneo we spent four days climbing around Kuala Lumpur, which I can happily report was very very good indeed (pics soon)! Then I headed to China for a few days and “press checked” the printing of Rock Climbing Down Under. Had to make sure the ink levels were just right. In addition to the normal edition of this book, we are producing 100 very special Limited Edition copies of the book; stay tuned for the next newsletter for more information about those — and how to reserve a copy for yourself.
Oh yes! The 2015 calendar is out now. Order it –> here.
Thanks again!
