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Daila Ojeda, Mind Control (8c/+), Oliana, Spain. Photo: Simon Carter.

Daila Ojeda interview

By | Interview | No Comments

Daila Ojeda

Interviewed by Monique Forestier. Photos as credited.

Daila Ojeda is a well accomplished sport climber best-known for her hard ascents at Oliana, which include Fish Eye (8c), Mind Control (8c/+), El Gran Blau (8b+/c), and many more hard ascents scattered throughout Catalunya. Monique had the chance to catch up with Daila recently and ask her a few questions about her climbing and her future.

Daila Ojeda, Mind Control (8c/+), Oliana, Spain. Photo: Simon Carter.

Daila Ojeda, Mind Control (8c/+), Oliana, Spain. Photo: Simon Carter.

Onsight: Let’s start with a bit of back ground for those who don’t know you too well. Where did you grow up? What sports did you play as a child? And how did you eventually get into climbing? How old were you when you started climbing?

Daila: I am from Gran Canaria (Canary Islands), I was born there in a little village where normally people surf, there is not a lot of climbing there, it’s not a famous sport. When I was 18 I watched a little bouldering competition in my home town I fell in love with this activity, I fell in love specially with the women, I saw the girls, super feminine, beautiful, super flexible, Read More

Barbara Zangerl, End of Silence (8b+) 11 pitches, Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany. Photo: Hannes Maier.

Barbara Zangerl ~ interview

By | Interview | One Comment
Barbara Zangerl ~ interviewed by Monique Forestier. Photos as credited.

Austria’s Barbara Zangerl (25) initially made her name in competition bouldering winning the Italian Melloblocco five times. On rock she achieved the first female ascent of Pura Vida (V12/V13) at Magic Wood in Switzerland back in 2008. Soon after she was forced to stop bouldering due to a back injury and turned her energy towards roped climbing. It seems that the shift in disciplines has allowed Barbara to excel even further. Last year she completed the highly venerated “Alpine Trilogy”, comprised of, End of Silence, Silbergeier and Des Kaisers neue Kleider. Respected for their boldness, these enduring multi-pitch routes are in alpine style and have long run-outs, all three routes were established in 1994 and given the grade of 8b+. I met Barbara at Oliana (Feb 2014) and was excited to ask her some questions about her climbing achievements and future plans.

Barbara Zangerl, Delicatessen, 120m (8b), Corsica. Photo: Klaus Dell'Orto.

Barbara Zangerl, Delicatessen, 120m (8b), Corsica. Photo: Klaus Dell’Orto.

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Sandbag in progress? John Ewbank getting Adam Darragh psyched as they reconnoiter a new route that they attempted the next day in the Grose Valley, Blue Mountains. 1997?

John Ewbank, a tribute

By | General News | 13 Comments

Text contributed by Bruce Cameron and Glenn Short.

The rock-climbing community was stunned recently by the news that Australian climbing legend John Ewbank died in New York on 2 December 2013. Ewbank was undoubtedly one of the most influential, if not the most influential, Australian climber of the 1960s and 70s.

Born in England in 1948, Ewbank first learned to climb in Yorkshire before emigrating to Australia as a teenager with his parents. He initially settled in Wollongong but was soon lured to the sandstone escarpments of the Blue Mountains by members of the Sydney Rockclimbing Club. The crags of the Blue Mountains were to become his spiritual home, as well as the source of his legacy to Australian climbing.

Sandbag in progress? John Ewbank getting Adam Darragh psyched as they reconnoiter a new route that they attempted the next day in the Grose Valley, Blue Mountains. 1997?

Sandbag in progress? John Ewbank getting Adam Darragh psyched as they reconnoiter a new route that they attempted the next day in the Grose Valley, Blue Mountains, 1997.

Leading climber of the day, Bryden Allen, must have seen potential in the young Ewbank and soon Read More

Rock Climbing Down Under: Australia Exposed is here Order now!